Helpful Hints when using Military oX stock oil
Helpful Hints:
1. NEVER add other products or solvents to Military oX. Correct curing depends on the balance it has.
2. With the lid on tightly, turn the label side up while holding the capped end of the can in your dominant hand. Elevating the
bottom end slightly above the top, shake with a rhythmic wrist action in a motion that will wash the pigments on the bottom back
into the mix. This is the most effective way to do it, and the fastest.
The pigments do not get hard on the bottom, just tightly packed, and the washing motion is best.
Three full minutes is not too much any time the can has been sitting upright for any length of time at all. Don’t try to scrape the
bottom with a screwdriver and stir; it isn’t effective and the little glob of pigments that sticks to the end of the blade are more
concentrated than you might think, and wiping them off into a rag and discarding them will change the color of your mix.
3. Use a small, wide mouthed jar or cup to pour a small amount of freshly shaken stock oil in so that you can dip two fingers and
the triple-folded wet-or-dry paper into it and drip the finish directly onto the wood when extracting your fingers from the jar. Give
the oil a little stir everytime you dip in. This technique will make your Military oX go a very long way.
If you use a rag or a paper towel to apply it with, you will waste enough to do a stock, soaking it up with the rag where you can’t
recover it.
4. When doing new wood, or old wood that has been stripped to fresh wood, final-sand lightly, but thoroughly with 180 grit
sandpaper before applying the oil. Lightly but thoroughly. That means don’t over-sand or rub hard, but cover every square inch.
Do NOT wipe the stock with mineral spirits or other solvents immediately previous to applying Military oX. Do not touch a freshly
sanded surface with dirty or greasy hands prior to the application of Military oX. If you accidentally get grease or gun oil, etc., on
the bare wood, clean it off with mineral spirits, but wait to apply Military oX oil until it is completely dry, (2 hours, minimum).
Otherwise, curing may be adversely affected.
5. Some of this information is common to all finishing jobs and is well known to experienced finishers. Don’t get discouraged if
you are just starting out or not very experienced when you see all these instructions and warnings. You will find that if you just
take the time once to read the finishing guide, that you will soon be finishing successfully and fast, with extremely satisfying
results.
Fairtrimmer’s Military oX is one of the best things that can happen to GUN wood
and to the people that own, finish and refurbish it.
1. NEVER add other products or solvents to Military oX. Correct curing depends on the balance it has.
2. With the lid on tightly, turn the label side up while holding the capped end of the can in your dominant hand. Elevating the
bottom end slightly above the top, shake with a rhythmic wrist action in a motion that will wash the pigments on the bottom back
into the mix. This is the most effective way to do it, and the fastest.
The pigments do not get hard on the bottom, just tightly packed, and the washing motion is best.
Three full minutes is not too much any time the can has been sitting upright for any length of time at all. Don’t try to scrape the
bottom with a screwdriver and stir; it isn’t effective and the little glob of pigments that sticks to the end of the blade are more
concentrated than you might think, and wiping them off into a rag and discarding them will change the color of your mix.
3. Use a small, wide mouthed jar or cup to pour a small amount of freshly shaken stock oil in so that you can dip two fingers and
the triple-folded wet-or-dry paper into it and drip the finish directly onto the wood when extracting your fingers from the jar. Give
the oil a little stir everytime you dip in. This technique will make your Military oX go a very long way.
If you use a rag or a paper towel to apply it with, you will waste enough to do a stock, soaking it up with the rag where you can’t
recover it.
4. When doing new wood, or old wood that has been stripped to fresh wood, final-sand lightly, but thoroughly with 180 grit
sandpaper before applying the oil. Lightly but thoroughly. That means don’t over-sand or rub hard, but cover every square inch.
Do NOT wipe the stock with mineral spirits or other solvents immediately previous to applying Military oX. Do not touch a freshly
sanded surface with dirty or greasy hands prior to the application of Military oX. If you accidentally get grease or gun oil, etc., on
the bare wood, clean it off with mineral spirits, but wait to apply Military oX oil until it is completely dry, (2 hours, minimum).
Otherwise, curing may be adversely affected.
5. Some of this information is common to all finishing jobs and is well known to experienced finishers. Don’t get discouraged if
you are just starting out or not very experienced when you see all these instructions and warnings. You will find that if you just
take the time once to read the finishing guide, that you will soon be finishing successfully and fast, with extremely satisfying
results.
Fairtrimmer’s Military oX is one of the best things that can happen to GUN wood
and to the people that own, finish and refurbish it.
LINKS TO INSTRUCTIONS:
NOTE applying to BIRCH STOCKS: If you have one of the HRA Service Grade rifles from CMP with the dyed birch stocks, apply
the Fairtrimmer's Military oX stock oil directly over it according to the instructions in Finishing Guide, Page 1., without pre-sanding,
if you wish to attain a result that imitates the standard color and look of walnut.
You may prefer sanding the dye off and finishing the natural birch. I cannot advise you on the choice, because I cannot grade the
appearance of the wood on your particular stock without seeing it.. You can see some examples of Military oX on natural birch
here: Special Slide Show 6 (All three of the carbine stocks are birch.)
the Fairtrimmer's Military oX stock oil directly over it according to the instructions in Finishing Guide, Page 1., without pre-sanding,
if you wish to attain a result that imitates the standard color and look of walnut.
You may prefer sanding the dye off and finishing the natural birch. I cannot advise you on the choice, because I cannot grade the
appearance of the wood on your particular stock without seeing it.. You can see some examples of Military oX on natural birch
here: Special Slide Show 6 (All three of the carbine stocks are birch.)